Ivy League (clothes) - Wikipedia

The Ivy League style was epitomized by the sack suit, which is defined as being a 3-to-2 (3 buttons with the top button "rolled" back to reveal only two usable ... IvyLeague(clothes) FromWikipedia,thefreeencyclopedia Jumptonavigation Jumptosearch Styleof1950snortheasternUSAfashion ForotherusesofthetermIvyLeague,seeIvyLeague(disambiguation). PaulNewmanwearingcasualIvyLeagueoutfitin1954,comprisingchinopants,poloshirt,andsportcoat. IvyLeagueisastyleofmen'sdress,popularduringthelate1950sintheNortheasternUnitedStates,andsaidtohaveoriginatedoncollegecampuses,particularlythoseoftheIvyLeague.Itwasthepredecessortothepreppystyleofdress.[1] Contents 1Origins 2Mainstreampopularityanddecline 3Revival 4Inpopularculture 5Seealso 6Notes Origins[edit] Mainarticle:Subculturesofthe1950s PresidentJohnFitzgeraldKennedy,astyleiconforfollowersoftheIvyLeaguelook. IvyLeaguedressischaracterizedbyacleancutbutoveralllessformalstylethanthatofpreviousgenerations.ThestyleoriginatedamongstudentsateliteAmericanuniversitiesandismainlyderivedfromthecasualattirewornbytheBritishandAmericanupperclassesduringthe1920sforsportingpursuitssuchasgolf,polo,sailing,rugbyfootball,hunting,WaterPolo,andtennis.Typicalsummerattireforthistimeincludedtwo-buttonnavyblazerswithgoldbuttons,stripedcollegeblazers,Ascotties,cableknittanktops,Oxfordshirts,Bretonstripedshirts,andwingtipshoes.Forfall,trendsetterssuchasthePrinceofWalescombinedthelatestAmericanfashionswithtraditionalBritishcountryclothingsuchasbrogueboots,Argylesocksandjumpers,andtweedclothsportcoats,Irishwalkinghatsandplusfoursinhoundstooth,herringbone,orthePrinceofWalescheckpopularizedbyEdwardVII.[citationneeded] Duringthemidtolate1950s,manyyoungcollegemenadoptedtheIvyLeaguelookduetoitsassociationwiththeupperclassesatleisure.[2]TheclothingstoresJ.PressandBrooksBrothersrepresentedperhapsthequintessentialIvyLeaguedressmanner,theformerwithtwoofitsfourlocationsfoundatHarvardandYaleuniversities(thePrincetonbranchclosedin1943). TheIvyLeaguestylewasepitomizedbythesacksuit,whichisdefinedasbeinga3-to-2(3buttonswiththetopbutton"rolled"backtorevealonlytwousablebuttons)jacketwithoutdartsandasingle"hooked"vent.Thepantsweretypicallycuffedandwithoutpleats.Itwasalsocharacterizedbytheuseofnaturalfabrics,shirtswithbutton-downcollars,andpennyloafers.Insuits,theIvyLeaguestylewaspromotedbyclothierBrooksBrothersandincludednaturalshouldersingle-breastedsuitjackets.In1957and1958,about70%ofallsuitssoldwereinthe"IvyLeague"style.[3][4][5] Typicalhairstylesincludedthecrewcut,Harvardclip,andregularhaircut,[6]andcommonclothingitemsincludedcardigansweaters,sweatervests,Nantucketreds,khakichinopants,knittedties,whiteOxfordshirts,[7]TootalorBrooksBrothersties,Ascotneckties,tartan,greytweedclothorflannelsportcoats,[8]andseersuckerblazersintheSouth.[9] Mainstreampopularityanddecline[edit] ModbandtheSmallFaceswearingIvyLeagueinspiredGlenplaidsportcoats. Fromthelate1950suntilthemid1960s,IvyLeagueclothingwasconsidereddesirablemainstreamapparelformiddleclassadultsintheUS.InBritainduringthemidandlate60s,theModsubculturecombinedthelatestItalianfashionswiththeattirewornbytheheroesincontemporaryAmericanfilmssuchasSteveMcQueen,JamesDeanorPaulNewman.[10]Particularlypopularwerethegreyflannel,Tonic,orhoundstoothsuits,poloshirts,chinopants,Argylesocks,sweatervests,cardigansweaters,basketweaveloafers,Madrasplaid,andnarrowbrimmedIrishwalkinghatsandTrilbys.[11]ThestyleremainedfashionableinAmericauntilitwassupplantedbymorecasualeverydayclothinginfluencedbythehippiecountercultureduringthelate1960sandearly1970s.[12] Revival[edit] Thissectionpossiblycontainsoriginalresearch.Pleaseimproveitbyverifyingtheclaimsmadeandaddinginlinecitations.Statementsconsistingonlyoforiginalresearchshouldberemoved.(March2018)(Learnhowandwhentoremovethistemplatemessage) TodaythelinebetweenIvyandpreppystyleissomewhatblurredbutpreppystyletendstobemorecolorful,especiallyinspringandsummer,andincorporatesmorecasualchicattire.Itwasfirstpopularizedintheearly1980sasareturntoIvyLeaguestylesafteradecadeofmoremoderntrends,buttoday,preppydiffersfromhistoricIvyLeague.Preppyfashionisinfluencedbytraditionalcollegiatetrends,ratherthanreproducingthemexactly,andvariousclothingitemscanbeconsideredpreppybasedonhowtheyarewornoraccented.Duringthe1990sand2000sPoloRalphLauren,VineyardVines,J.CrewandJ.Presswerelargemarketersofpreppyclothing,modernisedtoaccommodatenewtrendsinspiredbyindiepopandurbanfashion.Controversially,[accordingtowhom?]inarecentlyrevisedform,aversionofthisstyleissometimespromotedandmarketedas"AmericanTrad"orsimply"Trad,"althoughtherearemarkeddifferencesbetweenthetwostyles.Tradisnarrowerinscopethantheintermediatepreppystyle.[13] Bythe2010s,manyAmericanprepsoptedtodressinamoreclassic,tailoredstyleclosertotheoriginalIvyLeaguelook.[14] Popularitemsincludeloafers,SperryTop-Siderboatshoes,Aransweaters,cardigans,Oxfordshirts,Cricketpullovers,wingtips,stripypoloshirts,khakiorpastelcoloredVineyardVines,NantucketReds,whiteorbrightpastelcolorsocks,coloredjeans,baseballjackets,khakicargoshorts,andtaperedchinos.Blazers,especiallythosemadefromseersucker,hadmadeacomebackasinformalorsmartcasualwearbythemid2010s,andthetraditionaltwobuttonstylewasupdatedwiththrowbackstylinginspiredbyTheGreatGatsby.[15] [16] Inpopularculture[edit] Duringthe1950s,thewealthyandcleancutSquares,RahsandSocs(Socbeingshortforsocial)withtheirIvyLeagueclothesweretherivalstotheworkingclassGreasersubculture.[17]TheconflictbetweenthetwogroupsfeaturesinGrease,TheOutsiders,[18]IndianaJonesandtheKingdomoftheCrystalSkull,andCry-Baby.[19]InasceneinTheGodfather,setin1946,MichaelCorleoneisderidedasanunlikelyassassinbecauseheisa"collegeboy"whowearsan"IvyLeaguesuit."ThestylewasparodiedinClarkGesner'ssongTheIvyLeagueLookfromthe1957-58PrincetonTriangleClubmusical"AfterAFashion".[20][21] Seealso[edit] TakeIvy Jock Preppy Popularclique Subculturesofthe1950s Notes[edit] ^Fashiondesign ^GentlemansGazette ^"ACCENTONYOUTHINWASH'N'WEAR;SurveyExpectsIvyLeagueStyletoLift'58SalesinSummerSuitsDeclineSeenforWool".TheNewYorkTimes.NewYork.1957-08-14.p. 34.ISSN 0362-4331.Retrieved2013-05-03.Theso-calledIvyLeaguestyleinsummer-weightwash-and-wearfabricswillbemuchmoreimportantintheboy'sandyoungmen'ssuitmarketnextspring....Thethree-buttonIvyLeaguesuitestyleisexpectedtoaccountfor66%ofboyssuitscomparedwith44%inthe1957.Forstudents,thedominanceofthispopularmodelwillrisefrom69%to75%,accordingtothesurvey. ^JoAnneOlian(5September2002).EverydayfashionsofthefiftiesaspicturedinSearscatalogs.DoverPublications.ISBN 978-0-486-42219-0.TheIvy-leaguelookwasthehallmarkofsportswearthroughoutthelatteryearsofthedecade.Everyskirt,pairofshortsorslacksboastedaclothtabandbackbuckle,whilebutton-downcollars,pennyloafersandBermudashortswerefavoredbybothsexes.Theearlyfiftiessquare-shouldered,double-breastedmen'ssuitwithdrapedtrousersbowedtotheBrooksBrothers"naturalshoulder"single-breasted'IvyLeague'stylewornoffcampusaswellason. ^Sumathi,G.J(2002).Elementsoffashionandappareldesign.NewDelhi:NewAgeInternational.p. 25.ISBN 9788122413717.IvyLeague:ApopularlookformeninthefiftiesthatoriginatedonsuchcampusesasHarvard,Priceton[sic]andYale;aforerunnertothepreppielook;astylecharacterizedbybuttondowncollarshirtsandpantswithasmallbuckleintheback. ^BoysLife1959 ^LifeMagazine1959 ^LifeMagazine1954 ^RemovingtheIvyLeaguestigma ^NewmanandMcQueen ^ClaudioDeRossi ^GentlemansGazette ^Pompeo,Joe(2009-09-08)."TradMen".TheNewYorkObserver.NewYork,NY.Retrieved2013-05-03. ^Pompeo,Joe."AmericanTrad".Observer.com.Retrieved2012-01-21. ^"Americanfashionstaples".Archivedfromtheoriginalon2016-04-12.Retrieved2016-03-31. ^"2013blazers".Archivedfromtheoriginalon2016-04-12.Retrieved2016-03-31. ^Coolcarshighart ^Fantasticracism ^CryBaby ^"SixYearsAgo-TheIvyLeagueLook".IvyStyle.July25,2015.RetrievedDecember18,2018. ^PrincetonTriangleClub:theoriginal"IvyLeagueLook" 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